A question I often ask people when we have got past the preliminary small talk, is what is your ONE sport? Not to watch but to DO. Most people dabble in more than one, be it running and darts, swimming and snooker, skateboarding and golf. Individual choices often compliment each other and therefore are loved for different reasons. But if there could only be one, which is yours?

My answer to this is easy and consistent. I always answer surfing. Boom, no thought required. But why? Is this the most frustrating and inconsistent of all sports? Having surfed for 25 years I am still irritated by my lack of ability and inconsistency of performance. Should I be better? The amount of waves I catch and make the most of are few and far between. People who have surfed for less time than I try to give advice, which rightly or (probably) wrongly sends me into a mad place of indignance and a downward spiral. I’m still uncomfortable in any sizeable surf, although this hasn’t always been the case, children have affected my body and mind.

The best surfer is the one having the most fun, but I seem incapable of finding that ecstatic thrill again, like a heroin addict chasing the same high they had the first time. I know what I used to be able to do and I can’t do it now. Oh goodness, is that what old age has in store? I wrote an article about how all the other sports I do are so when the surf is good I’ll be physically ready, but lockdown has sucked all the motivation from me and my body is soft and unused. Mentally I’ve been surprised at the toll.

If you asked me what is my ONE sport?

Still surfing.